Seafarer Owner's Guide
Standing Rigging (Main Mast)
Running Rigging (Main Mast)
Fresh Water Storage
Choice of Winches
Choice of Sails
Care of Sails
Care of Rigging
Care of Fiberglass
Care of Teak
Care of Stainless Steel
12v Electrical System
Roller Reefing Mainsail
Roller Reefing Jib
Club Foot Jib
Hinged Mast Step
Ventilators and Opening Ports
Iceboxes and Refrigerators
115v Electric Power
Locking up your Boat
Your Seafarer Yacht has been carefully designed and constructed to offer the best standard of value in the industry. Please read the following instructions so that you will be able to take fullest advantage of its features.
If your Seafarer is to be shipped to you the standing rigging will be labelled and shipped in the rigging box inside the boat. Familiarize yourself with all parts before you start.
Connect the jaw ends to the mast using the clevis pins and cotter pins which are provided. The shrouds go to the tangs port and starboard, the forestay goes to the middle hole at the forward side of the masthead, the backstay goes to the aft hole at the aft side of the masthead. Connect the eye ends to the turnbuckles. Before stepping the mast remove the cotter pins from the turnbuckles and fully open them. Check the mast lights to make sure they operate.
Step the mast and connect the turnbuckles to the chainplates (single lower shrouds forward, upper shrouds aft). Adjust rigging tension by tightening the turnbuckles. When tuned, the forestay and backstay should be tight with the mast raked slightly aft. On the Seafarer 24 the backstay tension is adjusted by means of a backstay adjuster which is shackled to each part of the divided backstay port and starboard and is tightened by using the pennant provided. The upper shrouds should be moderately tight and the lower shrouds looser. This is so that when the boat heels, tension is put on the windward shrouds and as the shrouds stretch slightly the mast will be straight and both shrouds will be equally tight.
Since every skipper's tuning preferences are different Seafarer does not attempt to tune the standing rigging on boats delivered sailaway and cotter pins are provided seperately for you to use after you have tuned the rigging to your satisfaction.
Put cotter pins in the turnbuckles after they are adjusted. Do not sail the boat unless the cotter pins are in place. Wire rigging will stretch and for this reason check the tension on all rigging periodically and adjust as necessary. Be sure you use chafing tape on the spreader ends to acoid damaging the genoa. You should also use tape on the turnbuckles to avoid damage from the cotter pins.
To rig the mizzen mast first connect the jaw ends of the mizzen shrouds to the tangs on the mizzen mast port and starboard (upper shrouds to upper tangs), using the clevis pins and cotter pins which are provided. Connect the eye ends to the turnbuckles, remove the cotter pins from the turnbuckles and fully open them.
Before stepping the mast install the mizzen halyard block in the eye strap at the aft starboard side of the mast top. Lead the mizzen halyard through the block and down to the cleat on the starboard side of the mast. Lead the mizzen boom lift through the block provided at the aft port side of the mast top and down to the cleat on the port side of the mast opposite the halyard cleat.
When the mast is stepped connect the mizzen shroud turnbuckles to the chainplate eyes on deck (upper shrouds to aft chainplates port and starboard). Tighten the turnbuckles so that the upper shrouds are moderately tight and the lower shrouds are slightly tight. Install cotter pins in turnbuckles after they are adjusted.
Install the boom on the mast and connect the boom lift to the lift tang at the aft end of the boom. Connect the mizzen sheet boom block to the mizzen sheet tang at the aft end of the boom and the mizzen sheet deck block to the mizzen sheet deck eye. Lead the mizzen sheet through its blocks and to the cleat on the underside of the boom. Connect the mizzen boom downhaul to the eye under the gooseneck and lead down to the cleat at the aft side of the mast. The mizzen outhaul is shackled to the eye at the aft end of the boom, it leads through the clew eye on the mizzen and back to the cleat at the aft end of the boom.
Before starting the engine for the first time check that the propeller shaft is lined up accurately. This is necessary because your boat may have a slightly different shape when in the water than she had in a cradle and this may cause misalignment. To check for alignment loosen the coupling fastenings slightly; the engine is lined up when a feeler gauge will fit equally all around between the coupling flanges.
Before starting the engine make sure there is oil in the crank case and that the seacock on the cooling water inlet is open. Also, the fuel valve at the tank must be opened. If the engine fuel is gasoline first thoroughly ventilate the bilge with the exhaust blower and use the choke when starting. Start the engine with the reverse gear in neutral. After the engine is running check the oil pressure, the charging rate and that cooling water is flowing out of the exhaust outlet in the counter.
Leave the engine in gear to stop the propeller rotating when sailing. There will be least resistance if the propeller is in a verticle position. The shaft should be marked for this purpose and the engine always stopped with the propeller in the correct position.
When your Seafarer is delivered there will be 2-3 gallons of fuel in the tank. You should fill up as soon as possible.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for winter haulout and spring launching. In addition, check the stuffing box packing before launching each Spring and if worn replace it.
Always check the deck fuel fill for tightness after fueling. All Seafarers are fitted with non-sparking fuel fill plates which incorporate a rubber "O" ring to promote a good seal. Fill tank slowly. Do not overfill! Marine fuels expand with an increase in temperature. Therefore, fill to approximately 95% of capacity. If fuel is spilled secure fill cap and wash deck down thoroughly untill all traces of fuel have disappeared.
Outboard engines are dependable if the manufacturer's recommendations are followed. Keep a spare set of spark plugs handy to use if the engine does not start promptly. A wrench is supplied for this. Be sure to use a small grease gun frequently on all grease fittings.
Retract the engine out of the water when not in use to avoid resistance while sailing and fouling when moored. The Seafarer Instantilt well (available on Seafarer 23', 26', 28', and 31' models) has been engineered to make this easy. The engine is entirely hidden in the hull and protected by self-closing contour doors when not in use.
Always keep the boat level when underway under power! Excess power will cause the stern to squat and will not increase speed.
Please note if your Seafarer is delivered with an outboard engine that there will be no fuel in the tank.
Seafarer yachts (except for the Seafarer 24) do not require long shaft engines, standard shaft length is correct. Instantilt wells require that the engine be adapted to suit the well. A kit is available for this purpose. The Seafarer 24 requires a long shaft engine but no other adaptation.
Sailing is one of the safest of sports and can be absolutely safe if sensible precautions are observed. Federal law requires that all pleasure boats carry a life preserver for each person aboard, adequate fire extinguishers and a whistle or horn, and a bell if over 26' L.O.A. Race committees usually require additional safety equipment, particularly for long races, and such lists are a useful guide.
For reasons of safety no Seafarer yacht is ever equipped at the plant with lifelines that reduce in height forward. Although this practice is found on boats manufactured by others it is not accepted by any offshore race committee or similar authority. The condition of lifelines should be checked periodically and in particular the locknuts on the turnbuckles should always be tight.
Every boat should have a first aid kit on board. The requirements for this will generally vary with the length of the voyages undertaken.
A horseshoe or ring bouy life preserver with emergency flare and drogue attached should be stowed aft in an accessible position, ready at all times.
All seacocks should be kept closed (handle perpendicular to water flow) when no one is on board the boat. The only exceptions are the seacocks for the cockpit scuppers which must be left open to allow rain water to drain from the cockpit. These seacocks should be operated each time the boat is used to make sure they are working properly.
When the boat is hauled each year all seacocks should be dissassembled and lubricated with water pump grease. If this is not done they will become inoperative. To dissassemble unscrew the nut on the bottom and remove the rotating part by pulling the handle up. If this is done while the yatch is afloat have a plug handy to stop the water flow.
Check wether there is any water in the bilge when boarding or leaving the boat. A bilge access plate in the cabin sole is provided for this purpose. Remove any water with the bilge pump. Check the condition of hoses and connections periodically.
Do not attempt to operate toilet with seacocks closed. Seacocks may be left open when persons are aboard but must be particularly closed at other times because the toilet is an open loop and a failure of the toilet check valve could flood the boat. Operating the toilet is simple but guests should recieve instructions when they board. An instruction plate is included with your Seafarer.
Holding tanks and/or self contained toilets are available for all Seafarer yachts and can be installed to meet local regulations, if required.
Fresh Water Storage
Water tanks used on Seafarer yachts are linear polyethylene or fiberglass. If fiberglass they are manufactured with a completely smooth gelcoat finish on the inside. If water is left for long periods in any tank it will become stale. For this reason any water remaining in the tanks should be pumped out periodically. Tanks are best cleaned by filling with a solution of baking soda and leaving overnight, at least. After cleaning, flush out with fresh water. Please note that when your boat is delivered there will be no water aboard.
Bottom paint will not stick to fiberglass unless the surface is etched first. This can most easily be done with sandpaper, and will be done if you order anti fouling bottom paint applied to your boat at the plant. Seafarer uses Woolsey Vinelast anti fouling paint. For best results repaint with the same paint. If the bottom is painted on your Seafarer at the plant a small can of paint is included for touching up areas in contact with the cradle when the boat is launched or hauled. One of the most important elements in attaining speed under sail is a clean bottom. Make sure no fouling collects on yours!
Choice of Winches
Winches provide a means of multiplying the power applied to a load by means of a mechanical advantage. They also provide a means of "snubbing" a line, that is, holding it using only a fraction of the force being exerted by the load on the line.
Simple winches have plain bearings and ratchet devices to prevent anti-clockwise rotation. The next step up is the introduction of needle bearings to reduce friction. The next step is geared winches in which the handle rotates faster than the drum, thus further increasing mechanical advantage. The ultimate step for most boats is 2-speed geared winches in which the drum rotates slower when the handle rotates in one direction than in the other. All winches have one thing in common, the drum rotates clockwise!
Choice of winches depends on the use to which the boat will be put and the composition of the crew that will normally be aboard. If youngsters are to operate the jib sheets, for example, the winches installed should provide ample mechanical advantage. It does not pay to start with an inadequate winch and replace it later. Analyze your present and future needs carefully and install a winch that will do the job. Remember, winches require periodic greasing for efficient operation.
Choice of Sails
The traditional "starter set" is a mainsail and working jib. In place of the working jib some skippers prefer a #3 genoa which is a slightly larger sail and more likely to be appropriate in sailing areas where light to moderate winds predominate. A #1 genoa, generally the largest genoa used, is strongly recommended for inclusion in any basic equipment list except in sailing areas where moderate to strong winds can be counted on.
Seafarer sells imported sails as well as U.S. made sails from leading sailmakers. While the imported sails are carefully made and will last as long as U.S. made sails they are technically inferior as far as performance is concerned. If you want your boat to sail at its maximum speed, and you are yourself prepared to make the effort to accomplish this, you should select U.S. made sails. Imported sails are a good buy for those who want a suit of sails for cruising only. A sailmaker dimensional information sheet for your boat is available from Seafarer on request.
For further information, ask us to send you Ulmer's publications on sails and sailmaking. There is no charge for this.
Care of Sails
Dacron sails will not stretch or rot when wet and requite very little maintainance other than occasional washing to get rid of salt and dirt. However, unneccessary exposure to the sun should be avoided since long exposure to ultra-violet light will cause damage. For this reason mainsails left furled on the boom should be protected by a cover. Sails should be sent to a sail-maker each winter for renewal of worn stitching and professional washing. This will prove economical in the long run.
When settling sails be sure halyards are taut enough to maximize the efficiency of the aerfoil shape the sailmaker has sewn into the sail. This is essential if maximum boat speed is to be attained and usually requires a halyard winch, at least for the jib.
Care of Rigging
Clean rigging helps keep sails clean. A trip aloft periodically with damp rags takes care of this. While aloft, check the entire rig for loose fittings, cotter pins and chafe which may have resulted from hard sailing. Stainless steel elastic stop nuts are used on all Seafarer mast assemblies and for this reason it is unlikely that any will loosen, but it is wise to check. Periodic inspection of the rig from aloft is useful insurance against rigging and spar failure. Keep halyards tied away from the mast with shock cord when not sailing to avoid noise and damage to the mast surface.
Salt water will gradually stiffen Dacron line. Hosing with fresh water or soaking in warm soapy water will make the line soft and ready for immediate use. The threads on turnbuckles should be kept greased so that they can be turned freely when adjustment is required. A plastic boot over the turnbuckles will keep the lubricant on the turnbuckles and off anything else; this will also eliminate the need for chafe tape.
Care of Fiberglass
Fiberglass does not require any structural maintainance and will never deteriorate structurally. However the surface of any object exposed to weather will lose its shine and color and fiberglass is no exception. To retard this process we recommend waxing deck and hull surfaces three times per year - Spring, mid-Summer, and Fall - with a good grade of car wax containing a U-V "screen". If this is done the wax will take the brunt of the weathering process - not the surface underneath.
Minor scratches can be buffed out. Major gouges and voids should be filled with a 2-part automobile body filler and the surface then painted to match the surrounding area. Minor crazing occurs on many fiberglass moldings and is not structurally significant. The cans of gelcoat provided with every Seafarer yacht when new will not necessarily match the colors of the boat after the boat has been out in the sun for some time.
Care of Teak
Teak is extremely resistant to deterioration and is consequently the choice for exterior wood on all quality yachts. To maintain original appearance we recommend wiping or brushing on a sealer such as "Watco" periodically. This will close the grain and help maintain the original golden color of the wood.
Care of Stainless Steel
All stainless steel will tarnish or stain to varying degrees when exposed to salt water spray and weather. This is a surface condition that can easily be removed, and can to a great extent be prevented by thoroughly washing down with fresh water after a trip. Remove any dullness with fresh water, a sponge and a household cleaner such as "Comet". Use a stainless polish on any stubborn stains.
The battery on your boat is of the lead acid type, in that it consists of lead plates immersed in a solution of dilute sulphuric acid. When measured by a hydrometer the solution in a fully charged battery will have a specific gravity of approximately 1.280. A discarged battery will indicate about 1.150 on a hydrometer. You should never allow your battery to stand idle in a discharged condition. However, over charging a battery will also shorten its life. For these reasons you should check the condition of your battery periodically using a hydrometer and charge it as necessary to bring it to a fully charged condition. The batteries on all Seafarer yachts are in an accessible location so that this can be done without difficulty. If you remove your battery be sure when you replace it to securely refasten the hold down straps.
12v Electrical System
The yacht's electrical system is 12v D.C. The battery is charged by the alternator on the inboard engine, if installed, or by a battery charger and shore connection which is available for outboard powered models. The shore connection on the latter is connected directly to the charger and is designed only for that purpose - do not connect additional 115v equipment to the system. Do not disconnect the battery when running an engine equipped with an alternator since this will damage the diodes on the alternator.
Fuses protect all circuits and are easily replaceable without tools. The navigation lights are stainless steel; the bulbs can be replaced when necessary by removing the three stainless screws which hold the cover in place. Spare fuses and bulbs should be on board at all times.
A dual battery system is installed if specified by the owner. In this case the engine and navigation lights only run off one battery; cabin lights and all accessaries run off the other. The result is that the engine starting battery is always ready for use regardless of the drain imposed by cabin light use, etc. when cruising. Battery selection can be by means of a selector switch or, preferably, by a relay which automatically connects the two battery systems only when the engine alternator is charging.
The wheel steering on Seafarer yachts operates with a sprocket, chain and cables so that you retain the "feel" of the boat through the wheel. As the cable stretches, play will develop in the wheel and the cables must be tightened using the adjustments provided on the quadrant. Stow your emergency tiller (included with ever Seafarer yacht having wheel steering) in a place where it can be used quickly should it ever be needed.
The scope of an anchor rode should be 5-7 times the depth of the water. Always use a length of chain on the anchor to help it dig in and to help take up surge loads. Nylon is the best line for anchor rodes because its elasticity will also resist surge loads, but it chafes very easily and for this reason chafe guard should be used on bow chocks. This applies equally to dock lines.
Anchors can be stowed below (certainly when racing), in chocks on deck or cabin top, in a deck recess under a hatch (factory installed), or in chocks on the bow pulpit (handy for cruising). The anchor rode should be lead through the deck into the forepeak using a rope deck pipe. For further information refer to Danforth's book on anchoring.
The compass installed in your Seafarer yacht was adjusted before it left the manufacturer's plant. Since there is so little fixed magnetic material on board it is likely that the compass will not require further adjustment. To check this after your Seafarer is launched, line up the boat with two navigation marks. Check the bearing as shown on the compass (after allowing for magnetic deviation) with that shown for the marks on the chart. Reverse direction and check again. Try this for another set of marks lying on an approximately perpendicular bearing. If your compass reads correctly on all four bearings it does not need adjustment. If it does not read correctly, it will have to be adjusted professionally. Movable magnets are provided on the compass for this purpose.
All compasses installed on Seafarer yachts are internally lighted. The light will come on when the navigation lights are turned on.
Instructions for operation of the radiotelephone and for obtaining an operator's license are provided by the manufacturer. When your yacht is delivered the radiotelephone will be installed by Seafarer and be in operating condition, correctly tuned and with the antenna connected. Your radiotelephone is a convenience when plans change and a safety measure in case of emergency. For this reason it is seperately fused and powered by a direct feed from the battery.
Roller Reefing Mainsail
Roller reefing provides an easy, quick way to reduce mainsail (or mizzen) sail area. First head up into the wind and let the sheets go slack, then free the downhaul. Turn the boom to wind the sail onto it. As this happens the gooseneck will slide up the mast. When the gooseneck reaches the top of the track release the halyard sufficiently so that the boom will drop down into its previous position then secure the halyard. This process is repeated until sail area is reduced as much as desired.
Crank operated roller reefing makes turning the boom much easier than manual roller reefing, which requires that the boom be turned directly, but both systems produce the same result. Crank reefing is standard on all Seafarer yachts 34' and over, optionaly up to 31'. Crank reefing gears should be lubricated periodically to keep friction of a minimum.
Roller Furling Jib
This is a cruising convenience in that the jib or genoa can be furled without leaving the cockpit. However a partially furled genoa is not an efficient substitute for a working jib and should not be so regared.
Attach the swivel to the jib halyard shackle. Attach the bottom of the drum to the special deck eye aft of the bow chainplate. Attach the head of the sail to the swivel and the tack to the top of the drum. A special sail with a stiff luff wire is necessary.
The control line which operated the drum is lead from the drum through the fairlead on the arm of the drum then through fairleads on deck and back to a cleat on the starboard forward cockpit coaming. To unfurl release the control line and pull the sheet. To furl release the sheet and pull the control line.
Club Foot Jib
A club foot jib is self-tending while tacking and is a considerable convenience when sailing single-handed or cruising with a short crew. If desired, roller furling gear can be used in conjuction with a club foot jib with a minor modification to the clew outhaul rig.
The forward end of the jib boom is hooked into the special eye on deck which is on the centerline approximately 3' aft of the bow. The club foot jib sheet boom block shackles to the eye on the underside of the boom. near the aft end. The club foot jib sheet deck block shackles to the eye at the bottom forward side of the mast. Lead the jib sheet through the blocks and back through the fairleads on deck to the port side of the cockpit.
Attach the clew outhaul to the clew of the sail, using the shackle provided, then lead to the outhaul block, which is shackled to the eye at the top aft end of the boom, and to the cleat at the center of the boom on the port side.
Hinged Mast Step
To operate the hinged mast step first attach all standing rigging to the mast. Attach the backstay and shrouds to the chainplates, with turnbuckles open, before raising the mast. Position the base of the mast on the hinged mast step and secure the hinge pin.
Tie one end of the jib halyard to the jib tack eye using a rope extension, the other is led to the jib halyard winch. Alternatively, one end is secured to the halyard cleat on the mast, the other end is lead through a block shackled to the jib tack eye and back to a jib sheet winch. First lift the mast off the deck as high as possible by hand, then pull the mast up the rest of the way by means of the jib halyard using the jib halyard winch or jib sheet winch. When the mast is up secure the headstay and tune the rigging.
Ventilators and Opening Ports
Opening ports should be secured while sailing to avoid spray entering the cabin. Also, since ports are frequently positioned over berths they are usually closed if rain is anticipated overnight. The rubber gaskets on opening ports gradually deteriorate and must be renewed to avoid leaks.
To avoid these problems provision is made on all Seafarer yachts (except the Seafarer 23) for Dorade (water trap) Ventilators. These let in air at all times but do not let in water. In extremely rough conditions use the snap-in closure cap provided to entirely seal the ventilator. Angle the vents for maximum effect depending on the prevailing wind. One vent should be set to extract air, the other to introduce air.
In addition, a cowl vent can be installed on the foredeck. This may be left in position, except in extremely rough conditions, provided it is set to extract air. If a few drops of water land in the forepeak (usually where the anchor rode is stowed) this will not be critical.
The most popular galley stove is the alcohol type. Alcohol is safe fuel in that when evaporated it is lighter than air and therefore leaves the boat. This is not true of gasoline or kerosene which are potentially dangerous in that their fumes are heavier than air and can collect in the bilge. However, alcohol stoves require care in starting and for that reason butane and electric stoves are available.
Butane fuel presents the same hazard as gasoline and for this reason it is stored in a tank above deck and is shut off at both the tank and the stove when not in use. Electric stoves are convinient and present no fuel hazard but of course a shore connection or generator is required to power them. Instructions for operation of stoves are provided by the manufacturer and should be adhered to.
Iceboxes and Refrigerators
The traditional icebox is the best solution for almost all yachts. On most Seafarer designs provision is made for a front loading icebox because this provides better access than the top loading type, but it is not as efficient for conserving ice on long cruises. Extra bars are provided to hold the contents in the box while heeled but this can be inconvinient at extreme angles of heel.
Therefore all Seafarer yachts have provision for additional top loading icebox space under the main cabin berths for use when cruising. If this is used a small hole should be drilled so that the water from melting ice drains to the bilge. This arrangement is necessary on all iceboxes which are positioned lower in the boat than the water level outside when heeled. Use the bilge pump to pump the water overboard.
Conventional electrically operated refrigerators are of little use on boats since the temperature will rise inside them once the boat leaves dockside and power is removed. Normal batteries do not provide sufficient power to run refrigerators and hold-over plates in conventional refrigerators both have limited capacity and take up substantial space. The Cold Pump system which involves a large compressor driven directly off the engine (or indirectly by means of a generator and electric motor), a high capacity heat exchanger, a special box (usually divided into a freezer and a chill box) and large holdover plates is expensive but will provide satisfactory refrigeration if the system is run approximately one hour per day. This system is not practicle in boats under 34' l.o.a.
115v Electric Power
115v electric power can be used directly by means of a dockside cable. For safety reasons this must be a three wire connection, all outlets must have a grounding receptacle and all 115v electrical equipment used must be grounded. On all Seafarer yachts a polarity indicator light is provided which lights when power is connected and the polarity of the electrical connections on the boat matches those on dock. If the light does not light the connections must be reversed and/or the power feed checked. All 115v circuits on Seafarer yachts are provided with separate circuit breakers so that a short on any circuit will not blow the circuit breaker on the dock thus shutting off all power to the boat.
A 115v 4000 watt generator driven directly off the main engine is available for boats 31' and over. Such a generator can operate the same circuits off-shore as a shore connection does at dockside by means of a selector switch.
Water can be heated on a boat using a heat exchanger from the engine or 155v power or both. On Seafarer yachts, small quick recovery electric water heaters are installed as close as possible to where the hot water is required. These operate on shore current or from a generator when off-shore.
All Seafarer yachts 28' and over have provision for a shower. The shower operates through a single lever hot/cold/volume selector valve which is connected to the pressure hot and cold water system. A 12v electric pump, operated by a push button in the toilet room, is used to discharge the waste water from a sump.
All the interior surfaces of your Seafarer have been designed for easy housekeeping. All lockers have smooth, wipe-clean surfaces impervious to stains or marking. Wood surfaces are protected by 6 mil. of vinyl vacuum-formed and heat-bonded at the Seafarer plant to provide permanent protection and easy wipe-clean maintenance. For the same reason medicine cabinets are one-piece with glass shelves. The cabin sole is a single fiberglass unit with no crevises where dirt can collect. Normal maintenance can be done with a vacuum cleaner, a damp rag will take care of spills.
The carpet in your Seafarer is "Acrilan". It is not damages by moisture but it should be brought out on deck periodically for drying. In wet going the carpet can be rolled up and stored in a locker. Your cushion covers are either "Herculon" a durable, treated fabric or "Naugahyde". They can be removed using the zippers provided if cleaning or repairs are required. The foam inside is not damaged by water but if it gets wet the zippers should be opened to let air inside for drying.
All Seafarer yachts 28' and over have a stainless steel garbage container with a lid built into the galley. This can readily be removed for unloading. Most marinas and yacht clubs have convenient garbage disposal arrangements. If you keep your boat where a service is not available -or when cruising- you can take the container garbage ashore for disposal.
Locking Up Your Boat
All cabin hatches on Seafarer Yachts have hasps or, in the case of forward and midships hatches, lock securely from the inside. When your boat is delivered brass padlocks will be supplied for the main and lazarette hatches, additional padlocks, if desired, can be supplied on order.
Outboard motors in Seafarer Instatilt wells are protected from theft when the lazarette hatch is locked. On the Seafarer 24 the outboard motor must be locked to its bracket or stowed under the sail locker hatch. If it is stowed inside any resulting gasoline fumes in the interior of the boat must be ventilated.
When leaving the boat raise the tiller to a verticle position so it will not chafe. Secure the main sheet from the boom to the jib sheet cleats port and starboard to prevent the boom swinging back and forth. All Seafarer yachts are equipped with a boom lift controlled from the base of the mast to hold the boom up at any desired height.
Nautical charts provide information essential to sade navigation. No yacht should be navigated without reference to a current edition of chart of the area being sailed.
The U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey's compact, accordian folded, Small-Craft Charts are designed for convinient use on pleasure boats. They provide many special features such as large scale inserts of harbor areas, lists of facilities, tide tables, current tabulations, weather data, course bearings and illustrations of whistle and distress signals. These are generally replacing the conventional charts for small fraft use.
All Seafarer yachts 28' and over have provision for a chart table and navigators station for those who desire this. On the larger Seafarers the chart table is permanent; on other models the chart table folds out of the way when not in use.
The bottom of the boat should be thoroughly scrubbed immediately when the boat is hauled. This will save many hours of work later and if done thoroughly the surfave will be ready for anti-fouling paint in the Spring.
All standing and running rigging, including fittings, should be carefully checked when the boat is hauled and worn parts replaced. All water must be drained from the tanks and piping, the engine, the toilet and the bilge. The toilet and engine or outboard motor should be prepared for lay-up in accordance with the manufacturer's recomendation. A winter cover will protect the boat during the winter, but make sure it sheds snow and ice and is secure so that it cannot damage the boat when caught by the wind.
Seafarer cradles are welded steel and have hull support pads which are adjustable on threaded posts. They will survive longer than the wooden cradles and can be adjusted at all pressure points after the boat is stored for the windter to eliminate localized stress on the hull.